I was recently in the beautiful city of Guanjauto, where I went to the Mummy museum.
The museum is one of the main attractions of a city that I found to be the main attraction; its narrow colonial streets and the tunnels that made the city feel as if it were constructed on numerous floors, as well as its fascinating history, Guanajuato being a rich mining town that went through ups and downs, but was also a major center of Mexico’s independence struggle in the early 1800s, as well as the birthplace of the great Diego Rivera.
All that nevertheless seemed to be absent in the history of the mummies, which contrary to my naive expectations, were not mummies coming from pre-Colombian archeological sites. Maybe there is no difference between a 2000 year old mummy, or a 50 year old one - they are vestiges of a time - the well-preserved remains of a life lived, but at the same time the former is history, while the latter may have interacted with people we know!
There is thus a strange closeness to these mummies that come from the local cemetery, still adjacent to the museum. They are all from the 19th and 20th century, well-preserved bodies due to the special dry conditions in their burial niches, from which they were removed because nobody paid the fees for their upkeep after five years of them being laid to rest.
Some of the mummies are from the 1970s - they may have watched the same TV shows we see today! There was a mummy who was stabbed to death in 1942 - his murderer may have been able to see his victim in the museum.... Or the lady who as buried with her dead fetus, colloquially known as “the smallest mummy in the world”.
While I did not want to take pictures, I was particularly taken by the young lady whose entire body was naked, her clothes having been eaten by molds, but her fancy leather boots remained - with long laces, rounded toes and small heels, probably from the first years of the 20th century. They were quite elegant, and must have been rather fashionable at the time. These boots may have been her best piece of clothing; something that she was proud of, and made her look and feel special in the eternal world of appearances that was as real now as it was then. Perhaps they were her best boots, the ones she wore when she wanted to look particularly elegant to others; for an event - to show off to her friends and family. Perhaps she had been proud of them. Her family may have imagined that she wanted to be buried in these boots, her best boots, and so she was, with these boots now being what remains of her, alongside her mummified body.
We do not know why these people were removed from the resting place. Maybe their families were too poor to afford the upkeep, or simply they were forgotten; the lonely; those whose lives were a parenthesis; those who had nobody - who left no mark; maybe too poor and marginalised to ever be remembered.
Eduardo Galeano would have called them “Los Nadies”.
The Mummy Museum in Guanajuato is a macabre monument to those “nobodies”, and in a strange way I thought that it now seems ironic then that the exact marginalisation that suddenly took them away from their eternal resting place, took them to a museum. They could not remain in their graves, but today people pay to see them! They never had grand mausoleums, but have now become some of Guanajuato's most famous inhabitants.
And there they are, laughing straight at us with their bare teeth and empty eye sockets. They certainly had the last laugh!





